![]() I prefer to dig below frost line, pour a concrete trench (8"x16" cross-section) and place one or two #4 rebar in the middle. You can place blocks in a sand or gravel bed, but over time.say 5-10 years, the soil will shift and you can have portions of the wall sink or move and not look like it was originally placed. As long as it doesn't have a surcharge (pressure from an inclined embankment or water behind the wall), it does very well up to about four feet. The "castle block" or dry stacked blocks (like Home Depot sells) is usually more decorative. I often have used CMU with maybe a coating of parging (latex and stucco mix) to cover the outside if you can see it. I don't expect this area to get much in the way of moisture except what Mother Nature decides to give (if ever) so am not completely sure how it will survive over time.Īll good suggestions.so part of it becomes personal taste and what can be viewed. It looks like a sturdy process.but I'm sure time will tell. I used a chisel to get the remainder of old glue and block off. ![]() So I put a new block back in the place I just took out (silly me). After I did all this I realized that the tunnel is not that long and getting a stuck train would be easily to get. The block crumbled with little work but the part that was glued didn't come out as easily. So I decided to knock out one of the blocks. At one point I forgot to keep a "window" opening in the back just in case of a needed train rescue. It was extremely easy to use and made building the tunnel a quick job. (see my thread "The Redwood Creek and Tallulah Ridge Expansion Project" under Tracks, Trestles and Roadbed. When building my tunnel last week I decided to use the gray concrete block glued together with Loctite Landscape Block adhesive. I don't know what the prices are in your part of the world but yesterday a 25Kg bag of Portland Cement cost me £6.29p and the four 25kg bags of ballast were £4.57p each. The concrete mix that works for foundations for me is four loads of ballast to one of cement. Although I do know the basics of brick laying -the technique is simply slop some mortar down and squish a brick on top then knock around a bit until it is "square". Here in the Peak District we are famous for our "Dry Stone Walls" made by local farmers and builders due a tax on Lime in the 18th century -hence they have no mortar. It is the weight of the bricks that hold the structure together rather than the mortar -which is used to stop the bricks moving. I think that you are back to two loads of sand to one of cement. I have some experience using epoxy based "Needle Piling" to hold a foundation together but that was in a geologically "suspect" area of the world (Corinth). To be honest I don't think that you would ever get it to work.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |